What Are the Construction Methods for Leather Shoes? The Differences Between Blake and Goodyear Construction and How to Choose Them
Manufacturing method
Manufacturing method
Leather shoe construction | Features of Goodyear welted construction, Blake construction, sidewall stitched construction, and cemented construction
The comfort and durability of leather shoes vary greatly depending on their construction. Leather shoe constructions include Goodyear welted construction and Blake construction, each with its own distinctive features. Understanding these constructions makes it easier to choose the leather shoes that suit you best. Here, we introduce the main types of leather shoe construction and their features.
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Goodyear welted construction
This construction was developed in the latter half of the 19th century with machine-based mass production in mind, based on the original hand-sewn method known as hand-sewn welted construction. Its defining feature is that, when the upper and sole are joined, they are stitched together through a narrow strip of leather called a welt. First, the upper and welt are joined to the rib attached to the bottom of the insole using a through stitch. The welt and outsole are then joined with a channel stitch.
Because the upper and outsole are not stitched directly together, rainwater is less likely to seep into the shoe through the sole stitching. When the sole becomes worn, it can be repaired by replacing the entire sole, a process known as a resole. Although its complex structure makes it more expensive, the cushion (cork material) packed between the insole and outsole gradually takes the shape of the foot as the shoes are worn, increasing the sense of fit and allowing you to enjoy shoes that become comfortably molded to your feet for many years.
→ View products made with Goodyear welted construction
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Blake construction
Blake construction is a traditional technique that originated in Italy’s Marche region, and most Italian shoes are made using Blake construction. The upper and outsole are stitched directly through the entire shoe. Its simple structure provides excellent sole flexibility, and it can be used to make shoes from even very soft leather.
As the shoes are worn, they develop a foot-hugging fit that is unique to Blake construction. Because thin insoles and outsoles can be used, this construction is characterized by a dressy, delicate appearance, light weight, and flexible sole movement. Alongside Goodyear construction, it maintains a distinctive position as a construction method for creating sophisticated, high-end shoes.
→ View products made with Blake construction
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sidewall stitched construction
Sidewall stitched construction (Opanka construction) involves wrapping the upper (vamp leather) around the sides of the insole or outsole and stitching it from the side. Compared with standard Blake construction, the upper wraps around the sole, providing greater flexibility and a soft, comfortable feel that follows the movement of the foot with supple ease. The sole is also less likely to come away than on standard sneakers, which rely solely on adhesive, offering excellent holding strength and durability. In addition, its three-dimensional structure that envelops the foot provides a close fit and makes the shoes less prone to losing their shape. This construction offers a well-balanced combination of light weight, strength, and comfort, making it a specification that achieves both functionality and elegance in leather sneakers.
→ What is sidewall stitched construction?
→ View leather sneakers made with sidewall stitched construction
→ View our leather sneakers collection
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cemented construction
After temporarily securing the insole to the shoe last, the upper is pulled over the last. The leather and outsole are then roughened, adhesive is applied, and the insole, upper, and outsole are bonded together and heat-pressed.
Because the upper and sole are not stitched together, there are few design constraints. This construction is lightweight, accommodates a wide variety of shoe designs, and is characterized by its lightness and excellent flexibility.
Improvements in adhesive performance in recent years have enabled it to maintain consistent strength. Cemented construction is sometimes looked down upon compared with sewn sole constructions such as Goodyear welted construction and Blake construction. However, because it has no stitching, it is far less likely than other constructions to allow water to seep through the sole or sole edge, making it an excellent construction for protection against bad weather. It also enables mass production, helping keep prices reasonable even for shoes made in Japan.
As long as the upper is in good condition, a resole is not impossible.
Related articles
→ A guide to types of leather shoes
→ How to choose leather shoes